FASHION
FOR
YOUTH
THE
FASHION
FOR
THE
YOUTH
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Cover of Die Presse weekend supplement
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Helmut Lang Seance De Travail Fall 1998
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The First Virtual show Fall 1998
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The CD-ROMS sent out to editors and buyers
After establishing a modest made-to-measure studio in Vienna, Lang journeyed to Paris, where he unfurled his creative wings and swiftly ascended. His debut collection at Paris Fashion Week in 1986 signaled the onset of his trajectory. Unveiling a post-corporate wardrobe with the simplicity of
t-shirts and pants, he injected anti-fashion avant-garde into the industry. But it was in New York City that he truly blossomed, orchestrating a seismic shift that altered the very fabric of fashion weeks globally. He disrupted the order, propelling New York to the forefront, prompting Calvin Klein and Donna Karan to follow suit.
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[campaign] Helmut Lang Spring 1994
HELMUT
LANG
HELMUT
LANG
UNVEILING
CHROME HEARTS
001_________FFTY
(LEGACY)
(BEYOND THE HYPE)
Timeless allure of a family giant-
Modern Manifestation of Luxury
(LEGACY)
(BEYOND CONSTRAINTS)
FORGING A TIMELESS LEGACY THAT
RESONATES WITH GENERATIONS TO COME
( BEYOND CONSTRAINTS )
FORGING A TIMELESS LEGACY THAT RESONATES WITH GENERATIONS TO COME
LEGACY
If we were to chart the trajectory of a fashion revolution coming full circle, Helmut Lang would undoubtedly claim the apex of the list. Regardless of personal interests, Lang's name is one that has resonated in the minds of many. An indomitable force of 90s essentials, he left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, reshaping its contours in multifarious ways. Revered by your favorite designers, his unorthodox design history served as a beacon for an entire generation. Even mavericks like Carol Christian Poell trace their roots back to Lang (CCP worked with Helmut Lang in the beginning of his Design career), acknowledging his profound influence. The 90s, an era of opulence, saw Lang cunningly embrace minimalism, making the most of less. His designs were ubiquitous, adorning both the streets and the yellow taxis of New York City.
Recollections of Anna Wintour on Helmut's coming to Fashion
"Helmut came along and at first it was - ‘wait a moment, what's this? Not the spirit of the 80s which was all about opulence. But then everything crashed and fashion reflected that and Helmut was there to take advantage.”
A Helmut Lang ensemble was more than attire; it was an enigma, a complex shroud that defied the ordinary. Lang himself cautioned against overexposure, recognizing the peril therein. While his 90s reign faced its controversies, his legacy persists. Every seasonal show reverberates with the echoes of Helmut, glimpsed in the silhouette of a Celine suit or the mood boards of emerging streetwear brands. His impact is unmistakable—manifest not only in design but also in the realms of art, collaboration, and unintended achievement. Lang's journey was an accidental odyssey. Unintentionally, he spearheaded a revolution among the youth, amassing a cult-like following. Amid an age of fashion abundance, he became a master of subtraction, crafting a new mode of sly dressing that intrigued and puzzled. The essence of the 90s was his canvas, yet he brushed it with something distinctly novel. In his nascent years, Lang's creative explorations birthed a penchant for essentials, fashion meant to be essential. His foray into the world of clothing began with a pair of t-shirts and pants, fitting for someone whose roots lay in the realm of essentials. His vision defied convention, resisting the gravitational pull of societal norms. The legacy of Peter Do, an embodiment of modern minimalism, aligns harmoniously with Lang's ethos, making him the rightful torchbearer as the brand's creative director.
Fall 2003 and Spring 2004
"I am excited to learn from the foundation this house stands on and to continue creating new energetic clothes that inspire people to challenge their understanding of what is possible when it comes to expressing their individuality,"
Peter Do in a post-announcement interview with Hypebeast.
"I am excited to learn from the foundation this house stands on and to continue creating new energetic clothes that inspire people to challenge their understanding of what is possible when it comes to expressing their individuality,"
Peter Do in a post-announcement interview with Hypebeast.
"I am excited to learn from the foundation this house stands on and to continue creating new energetic clothes that inspire people to challenge their understanding of what is possible when it comes to expressing their individuality,"
Peter Do in a post-announcement interview with Hypebeast.
"I am excited to learn from the foundation this house stands on and to continue creating new energetic clothes that inspire people to challenge their understanding of what is possible when it comes to expressing their individuality,"
Peter Do in a post-announcement interview with Hypebeast.
Lang epitomized coolness, exemplifying effortless dressing while experimenting with form and function. He bestowed upon the world a wardrobe of daily essentials, akin to a uniform for everyone. His designs riffed on the uniforms of laborers—painters, construction workers—elevating their functional wear to new heights. Notably, he etched his name in the annals of high fashion through the introduction of denim, bestowing upon it an unexpected luxury status. Urban grace, subversive silhouettes, form-follows-function, and an industrial design approach—these theoretical design concepts found tangible embodiment in Lang's creations.
The genesis of Lang's narrative was rooted in rural Austria. Born as Peter Scepka in 1956, he imbibed the rudiments of design and shoemaking from his grandfather. His shift to Vienna marked a turning point, an encounter with ill-fitted suits that inadvertently propelled him toward his destined trajectory. Despite harboring artistic aspirations, Lang's immersion in the Viennese art scene via bartending opened his eyes to an alternative path. He contemplated fashion as a secondary pursuit to fund his true artistic calling. Unimpressed by prevailing clothing options, he ventured into crafting his own garments. Supported by family and friends, he commenced crafting made-to-measure pieces, fashioning a sideline into a burgeoning enterprise. His lack of formal fashion education was eclipsed by a boundless approach unshackled by norms.
[ Helmut Lang Fall 1999 Ad Campaigns ]
THE [FIRST] OF MANY
- The first designer to show male and female models together in one collection and was also one of the few designers known for his diverse approach in casting and had friends from all walks of life walk for his show-
Elfie Semotan (photographer) at 51 years old was a regular Helmut Lang model.
-The first designer to get nominated for all three CFDA categories- womenswear, menswear and accessory designer of the year.
-The first designer to embrace virtual technology in fashion. Its so common to present collections virtually but Helmut did it first with his spring 1998 collection sent out as CD Roms to buyers and editors.
-One of the first designers to popularise and normalise collaborations with artists, He collaborated with many artists in his campaigns, stores and shows, Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeoise, Robert Mapplethorpe to name a few.
-He then became the first non american designer to win the prestigious award for best menswear designer of the year- he didnt even attend the ceremony as he was ‘busy with his collection’
Helmut Lang's story in fashion had the most unconventional beginning; he connected with the audience on a deeper level. Not only did he design clothes that we were accustomed to seeing in daily life, but his unique approach in presenting collections also played a significant role. Helmut named his runway shows 'SEANCE DE TRAVAIL,' which meant work sessions in French, showcasing his marketing genius. His advertisements were simple and ironic, and the concept of backstage photos, popularized by Juergen Teller and Helmut Lang himself, offered genuine glimpses behind the scenes of his collections. At one point, all taxis bore Helmut Lang’s name, and his brand featured prominently on various channels. This approach attracted audiences far beyond the fashion industry, connecting with the 'average' person. Helmut Lang was widely known for his material exploration, creating garments from unconventional materials such as rubber, trash bags, bubble wrap, bottle caps, and metallic textures. Through this, he demonstrated that fashion had no boundaries.
SMILE AND SAY"JEANS!"
THE [FIRST] OF MANY
- The first designer to show male and female models together in one collection and was also one of the few designers known for his diverse approach in casting and had friends from all walks of life walk for his show-
Elfie Semotan (photographer) at 51 years old was a regular Helmut Lang model.
-The first designer to get nominated for all three CFDA categories- womenswear, menswear and accessory designer of the year.
-The first designer to embrace virtual technology in fashion. Its so common to present collections virtually but Helmut did it first with his spring 1998 collection sent out as CD Roms to buyers and editors.
-One of the first designers to popularise and normalise collaborations with artists, He collaborated with many artists in his campaigns, stores and shows, Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeoise, Robert Mapplethorpe to name a few.
-He then became the first non american designer to win the prestigious award for best menswear designer of the year- he didnt even attend the ceremony as he was ‘busy with his collection’
Raf Simons wearing the Helmut Lang red stripe denim jacket from Spring 1997 at Christian Dior Spring 2013
Alexander McQueen wearing the Helmut Lang painter jeans in a photo by Anne Deniau (1999)
In 1997, a pivotal juncture arrived with the launch of his denim jeans line—an innovation that straddled the line between streetwear and luxury. Yet, the turning point came in 1999, with the Prada Group's acquisition of a majority stake. Unfortunately, their mismanagement led to a decline marked by misguided strategies, which culminated in Lang's departure from the brand in 2005, bereft of creative control. But from these ashes, a new artist emerged. The destruction of Lang's archives in a fire became a catalyst for his transformation into a sculptural artist. The legacy of his fashion journey had found a new medium for expression.
--------- HELMUT LANG SPRING 1998
--------- HELMUT LANG FALL 1994
UNENDING INFLUENCE
Helmut Lang's influence in fashion remains resounding and pervasive in contemporary design. Renowned for his minimalist aesthetic and innovative use of materials, Lang's legacy continues to shape the industry's emphasis on clean lines, understated elegance, and deconstructed silhouettes. His pioneering of runway presentations as immersive experiences and his collaborations with artists set a precedent for multidisciplinary creativity. Lang's trailblazing fusion of art and fashion, coupled with his emphasis on functionality, still resonates in the modern fashion landscape, inspiring designers to prioritize timeless sophistication and concept-driven collections.
--------- HELMUT LANG SPRING 1998 MENSWEAR
IMPRESS YOUR PARENTS - WEAR HELMUT LANG!
[2017]
ISABELLA BURLEY, THEN EDITOR IN CHIEF OF DAZED IS APPOINTED AS THE 'EDITOR IN RESIDENCE' OF HELMUT LANG, WHO THEN INVITES SHAYNE OLIVER OF HOOD BY AIR TO DESIGN A COLELCTION FOR THE BRAND.
[1986]
H.L MOVES TO PARIS AND IS INVITED TO SHOWCASE HIS FIRST COLLECTION AT PARIS FASHION WEEK- SS87 CONSISTING OF TSHIRTS AND PANTS
+ Burley leaves and Alix Browne of V Magazine is bought in to serve as Editor In Residence
[2023]
PETER DO IS APPOINTED AS THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE BRAND
[THE FIRST HL COLLECTION UNDER DO IS SET TO BE PRESENTED AT NYFW ON SEPTEMBER 8TH]
(Timeline)
[1977]
HELMUT LANG OPENS HIS FIRST MADE TO MEASURE STUDIO IN VIENNA
[1997]
THE INTRODUCTION OF THE HELMUT LANG DENIM JEANS LINE
[1998]
PRESENTS THE INDUSTRY'S FIRST VIRTUAL COLLECTION
[1999]
PRADA ACQUIRES 51% STAKE IN THE BRAND
[2004]
ACQUIRES THE ENTIRE BRAND
[2005]
HELMUT LANG LEAVES FASHION
[2006]
THE BRAND IS DEEMED UNPROFITABLE BY PRADA AND IS SOLD OFF TO
THEORY HOLDINGS
[2006]
MICHAEL AND NICOLE COLOVOS TAKE OVER THE REINS OF THE BRAND, FAILING TO BRING NEW ENERGY AND WORKING OFF OF ARCHIVES TO STAY RELEVANT-THEY EXITED IN 2014
[2018]
SHAYNE PUTS HIS BRAND ON HOLD TO GUEST DESIGN A COLLECTION FOR HELMUT LANG WHICH BOUGHT IN FRESH ENERGY AND A RAW EDGE TO THE BRAND WITH HELMUT ESSENTIALS IN SHAYNE STYLE.
+ The brand also reintroduces major archive pieces in the form of a capsule collection called re edition. label's most notable pieces were bought back to the audience in an attempt to continue the legacy of the brand.
[2017]
ISABELLA BURLEY, THEN EDITOR IN CHIEF OF DAZED IS APPOINTED AS THE 'EDITOR IN RESIDENCE' OF HELMUT LANG, WHO THEN INVITES SHAYNE OLIVER OF HOOD BY AIR TO DESIGN A COLELCTION FOR THE BRAND.
[2017]
ISABELLA BURLEY, THEN EDITOR IN CHIEF OF DAZED IS APPOINTED AS THE 'EDITOR IN RESIDENCE' OF HELMUT LANG, WHO THEN INVITES SHAYNE OLIVER OF HOOD BY AIR TO DESIGN A COLELCTION FOR THE BRAND.
(Timeline)
[1977]
HELMUT LANG OPENS HIS FIRST MADE TO MEASURE STUDIO IN VIENNA
[1986]
H.L MOVES TO PARIS AND IS INVITED TO SHOWCASE HIS FIRST COLLECTION AT PARIS FASHION WEEK- SS87 CONSISTING OF TSHIRTS AND PANTS
[1997]
THE INTRODUCTION OF THE HELMUT LANG DENIM JEANS LINE
[1999]
PRADA ACQUIRES 51% STAKE IN THE BRAND
[2004]
ACQUIRES THE ENTIRE BRAND
[2005]
HELMUT LANG LEAVES FASHION
[2006]
THE BRAND IS DEEMED UNPROFITABLE BY PRADA AND IS SOLD OFF TO
THEORY HOLDINGS
[2006]
MICHAEL AND NICOLE COLOVOS TAKE OVER THE REINS OF THE BRAND, FAILING TO BRING NEW ENERGY AND WORKING OFF OF ARCHIVES TO STAY RELEVANT-THEY EXITED IN 2014
[2018]
SHAYNE PUTS HIS BRAND ON HOLD TO GUEST DESIGN A COLLECTION FOR HELMUT LANG WHICH BOUGHT IN FRESH ENERGY AND A RAW EDGE TO THE BRAND WITH HELMUT ESSENTIALS IN SHAYNE STYLE.
+ The brand also reintroduces major archive pieces in the form of a capsule collection called re edition. label's most notable pieces were bought back to the audience in an attempt to continue the legacy of the brand.
+ Burley leaves and Alix Browne of V Magazine is bought in to serve as Editor In Residence
[2023]
PETER DO IS APPOINTED AS THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE BRAND
[THE FIRST HL COLLECTION UNDER DO IS SET TO BE PRESENTED AT NYFW ON SEPTEMBER 8TH]
[2017]
ISABELLA BURLEY, THEN EDITOR IN CHIEF OF DAZED IS APPOINTED AS THE 'EDITOR IN RESIDENCE' OF HELMUT LANG, WHO THEN INVITES SHAYNE OLIVER OF HOOD BY AIR TO DESIGN A COLELCTION FOR THE BRAND.
[1998]
PRESENTS THE INDUSTRY'S FIRST VIRTUAL COLLECTION
IMPRESS YOUR PARENTS - WEAR HELMUT LANG!
ARTISTIC COLLABORATIONS
Helmut Lang was always connected to the art world, even after becoming a fashion designer. Lang bought artists to the world of fashion by being one of the first designers to brings constant collaborations with artists to the industry. A feat quite common now amongst many, like Matthew Williams and Kim Jones. He maintained his connection to art and undertook collaborations with Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and others.
ARTISTIC COLLABORATIONS
Helmut Lang was always connected to the art world, even after becoming a fashion designer. Lang bought artists to the world of fashion by being one of the first designers to brings constant collaborations with artists to the industry. A feat quite common now amongst many, like Matthew Williams and Kim Jones. He maintained his connection to art and undertook collaborations with Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and others.
Helmut Lang was always connected to the art world, even after becoming a fashion designer. Lang bought artists to the world of fashion by being one of the first designers to brings constant collaborations with artists to the industry. A feat quite common now amongst many, like Matthew Williams and Kim Jones. He maintained his connection to art and undertook collaborations with Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and others.
[archive]
[archive]
[archive]
[archive]
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Spring 2004 backstage photographed by Juergen Teller
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Spring 2004 campaign photographed by Juergen Teller
Spring 2004 campaign photographed by Juergen Teller
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Spring 2004 backstage photographed by Juergen Teller
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Spring 2004 campaign photographed by Juergen Teller
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Helmut Lang Nipple Tank Top from Spring 2004
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[MATERIALS] HL bubble wrap jacket from Spring 2003
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[MATERIALS] HL Fall 2003 Metal vest
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[MATERIALS] HL ASTRO silver padded biker from Fall 1999
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[MATERIALS] HL Bottle Cap metallic jacket from Spring 2004
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Helmut Lang Painter Denim Jeans from Fall 1998
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The famed Bulletproof vest from Spring 1998/99
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Helmut Lang polo neck holsters from Spring 2003
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KRISTIAN STARK
LAURIE LYNN
RICHARD STARK
FRANKIE BELLE
JESSE JO
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Helmut Lang Spring 2005
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THE 'LAST' COLLECTION
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Helmut Lang Fall 1994
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Helmut Lang Spring 2004
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Helmut Lang Fall 2003
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Helmut Lang Fall 2003
Helmut Lang Spring 2004
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Helmut Lang Spring 2004
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Helmut Lang Spring 2004
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Helmut Lang Fall 2003
Helmut Lang Fall 2003
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Design of the Times - I-D, December 1993 spread
Design of the Times - I-D, December 1993 spread
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Helmut Lang Spring 1993 campaign by Elfie Semotan
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Helmut Lang Spring 2003 campaign
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Helmut Lang Fall 2003 campaign
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Helmut Lang Fall 2003 campaign
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HELMUT LANG AD CAMPAIGN AW97 SHOT BY BRUCE WEBER.
featuring Louise
Bruce Weber: ‘Helmut Lang asked me to take a picture of louise. i asked if it was important to show any objects or clothes, and he said ‘no, but i made a little crown for her and maybe she’ll wear it, maybe she won’t’.
[31] SPIRAL WOMAN SCULPTURE BY LOUISE AT THE HELMUT LANG STORE, PARIS.
HELMUT LANG X LOUISE BOURGEOIS
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HELMUT LANG X LOUISE BOURGEOIS
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HELMUT LANG AD CAMPAIGN AW97 SHOT BY BRUCE WEBER.
featuring Louise
Bruce Weber: ‘Helmut Lang asked me to take a picture of louise. i asked if it was important to show any objects or clothes, and he said ‘no, but i made a little crown for her and maybe she’ll wear it, maybe she won’t’.
[31] SPIRAL WOMAN SCULPTURE BY LOUISE AT THE HELMUT LANG STORE, PARIS.
"MAKE IT HARD": 25 YEARS OF WORK
FIRE DESTROYED ARCHIVES TURNED INTO ART SCULPTURES WITH PIGMENT AND RESIN IN 2011
Helmut Lang's Make It Hard: 2011, The Fireplace Project
"MAKE IT HARD": 25 YEARS OF WORK
FIRE DESTROYED ARCHIVES TURNED INTO ART SCULPTURES WITH PIGMENT AND RESIN IN 2011
Helmut Lang's Make It Hard: 2011, The Fireplace Project
IMPRESS YOUR PARENTS - WEAR HELMUT LANG!
Michael Kardamakis, founder of Endyma, the fashion archive with the world’s largest collection of Helmut Lang with a total of 1650 pieces (and counting)
ENDYMA means Greek for ‘garment’ .
LEFT: Bliss Foster's detailed video conversation with Michael on the collection of Helmut pieces. (All Video Courtesy" Bliss Foster on Youtube)
IMPRESS YOUR PARENTS - WEAR HELMUT LANG!
Michael Kardamakis, founder of Endyma, the fashion archive with the world’s largest collection of Helmut Lang with a total of 1650 pieces (and counting)
ENDYMA means Greek for ‘garment’ .
TOP: Bliss Foster's detailed video conversation with Michael on the collection of Helmut pieces. (All Video Courtesy" Bliss Foster on Youtube)
From Left; Fall 1995 phoenix Print top, Military jacket, Clear cigarette case, (Reedition) of Helmut Lang Backstage spray painted logo t-shirt, Fall 2002 , Spring 2005 Stencil Logo tee,
From Left; Fall 1995 phoenix Print top, Military jacket, Clear cigarette case, (Reedition) of Helmut Lang Backstage spray painted logo t-shirt, Fall 2002 , Spring 2005 Stencil Logo tee,
ARTISTIC COLLABORATIONS
Helmut Lang was always connected to the art world, even after becoming a fashion designer. Lang bought artists to the world of fashion by being one of the first designers to brings constant collaborations with artists to the industry. A feat quite common now amongst many, like Matthew Williams and Kim Jones. He maintained his connection to art and undertook collaborations with Jenny Holzer, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and others.
HELMUT LANG JEANS ADVERTORIAL CAMPAIGN SS97 UNTITLED FEATURING (LAYERS OF UNDERWEAR) BY ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, 1970.
HELMUT LANG SS97 FEATURING ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE'S 1982 PHOTOGRAPH OF A HEART AND DAGGER
HELMUT LANG SS97 UNTITLED FEATURING WITH ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE'S SELF PORTRAIT OF 1975
HELMUT LANG X ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE
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HELMUT LANG X ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE
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HELMUT LANG JEANS ADVERTORIAL CAMPAIGN SS97 UNTITLED FEATURING (LAYERS OF UNDERWEAR) BY ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, 1970.
HELMUT LANG SS97 FEATURING ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE'S 1982 PHOTOGRAPH OF A HEART AND DAGGER
HELMUT LANG SS97 UNTITLED FEATURING WITH ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE'S SELF PORTRAIT OF 1975
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HELMUT LANG SPRING 2018 AS SEEN BY SHANYE OLIVER
HELMUT LANG X JENNY HOLZER
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Helmut Lang Parfums fragrance X collaboration with artist Jenny Holzer, 1996. Slogans of Holzer's words
HELMUT LANG X JENNY HOLZER
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Helmut Lang Parfums fragrance X collaboration with artist Jenny Holzer, 1996. Slogans of Holzer's words
In 1997, another pivotal moment arrived for the brand with the launch of his jeans line. This move was revolutionary, introducing a garment never before seen on runways—a bridge between literal streetwear and luxury. The sought-after "painter denim jeans" were crafted with a special rubber paint to ensure their longevity even after washing. Interestingly, this denim line's success played a role in the eventual decline of the brand. A turning point occurred in 1999 when the Prada Group began acquiring a stake in the brand. Their initial moves included introducing new fragrances and accessories while significantly reducing the focus on the denim line. Eventually, the denim line was closed altogether. This strategic shift caused the brand to experience substantial losses, estimated at around 60%, considering the denim line had been a major profit driver. Their approach was a mistake, as the Prada Group attempted to implement the same strategy as other brands under their umbrella. Unfortunately, this led to a swift downfall for Helmut Lang. By 2004, Prada had acquired the remainder of the brand, solidifying its future. Ironically, the Prada Group's CEO had expressed belief in the brand's potential and its possibilities for growth. For Helmut, losing creative control was the final straw, prompting his departure from the fashion industry in 2005 after presenting the best collection of his career up to that point. This exit felt more like a beginning rather than an end—a step away from something that no longer allowed him the creative freedom and authenticity he cherished as a designer.
Many designers followed, attempting to breathe new life into the brand, but they struggled to capture its energy or reignite its legacy. Although this was heartbreaking, life came full circle for Helmut Lang after this phase. His dream of becoming an artist became attainable. In 2010, he symbolically closed the doors on his fashion past when a fire in his SoHo studio destroyed the Helmut Lang archive. This incident provided an unexpected opportunity for Helmut. He transformed 6,000 burnt clothing pieces into towering pillars of pigment and resin for an exhibition called 'Make It Hard.' This exhibition cleverly showcased his transition from being a fashion designer to embracing the realm of a sculptural artist.
“I had done what i could in fashion, I wanted to do much more in art” 25 years of work was destroyed revived that day.